Monthly Archives

april 2012

Day 32.

I am “saving up” shoes and dresses for the Fashion Summit next week, and to compensate I am wearing my old beloved Stetson hat (well aware that with a head the same size as an average boxer it’s not always pretty). I actually measured my head today. The circumference is 60 cm. More than half a meter! That can’t be normal for a girl?! I am still deciding whether I am impressed or depressed. 
PS. But the shoes I am wearing is a complete knockout! They are a gift that I only kept out of pity but after actually trying them on I found out I think I love them. They are so sweet, ugly and helpless. 

Day 29, 30 and 31.

Hungover, happy and making apple cake. 

Drunk, happy and newly graduated opinion former at the danish center left think tank Cevea.
Nervous and happy at my talented tailor friend‘s apartment the day before the exam. 

I just got back to Aarhus after a hectic and very lovely weekend in Copenhagen, and I am happy to read in my two readers your comments that I am not the only one who is, more or less subconsciously, moving toward a color less wardrobe. 

Right now I am reading a Vogue article about the english queen who apparently doesn’t care what people think about her color fetish (remember: Everytime you see a rainbow God is having gay sex:)) 

Day 28.

These are my FINAL of the 14 pairs of pants I haven’t worn in the past year. This means that I am now allowed to choose freely between the pants I haven’t worn (Uhm, I like these legal obsessions). 
I am realizing that almost all my unworn clothes bought from the time I was younger, are very colorful, which is in strong contrast to my self image of one of the low key fashion adults like Signe Bindslev Henriksen who’s wardrobe looks somewhat like this:

(The pictures are from p. 112 in the april issue of Eurowoman)

I can’t help finding it a bit comical that I desperately wish for three identical Rick Owens jackets and think its really tasteful to have five (also almost) identical cardigans, when all my senses tells me that it is seriously boring.
Today I read about why it is that every colour (or thing) can only at best aspire to “become the new black”. Where does this chromophobia come from? Isn’t it a bit weird? I mean, a couple of days ago I was in my red dress and I tell you it is impossible to feel bad when wearing that dress! By default I buy and wear colour, but my rational adult self thinks I look much more attractive in the classic (boring?) stuff. Maybe one should just let the french handle the laws of simplicity and settle with weirdo colors and patterns. 
Hmmm… I will feed my mind with colours and bastogne and get back as soon as I have the answer. 

Oh, may I ask you something on the faldereb?
Out of all your clothes, what makes you the most happy to wear  Why?

Day 25 and 26.

As you can see we are now entering the dress era. It is nice to wear them again (but always remember deodorant when wearing synthetic clothes. No matter what time you went to bed).

 At 3.30 in the morning just after pressing the “print”-button!

The Sustainable Fashion Consumer

I have just handed in the paper part (and the reason for my cave life style the past two weeks) of my Master project. Boom:


The Sustainable Fashion Consumer
         – Emotional consumption in a physical world
Ida Burchardi
Interaction Design
Kolding School of Design
May, 2012
This paper aims to contribute to a better understanding of young female fashion consumers relationship with their clothes and thoughts about sustainability.
The study approaches the field research about young female consumers fashion consumption from a grounding in theory a.o. about ’Fast Fashion’ by author and consultant Kate Fletcher and ’needs’ by economist and environmentalist Manfred Max-Neff. In addition to this field is a sociological point of view on how different generations have different needs. Another key subjects is research about why people buy, and how this agrees with the ethical initiatives made by the fashion industry.
Looking at the rise of sustainable fashion, this article is also looking at the paradox in consuming ethical fashion from a retailer that is operating within a business model, that arguably is the root cause of unsustainability in terms of fashion consumption.
The theory is supplemented by a recent report by the NICE Consumer project that aims to lead consumer behaviour toward more sustainable fashion consumption, covering the purchase, use, care for and disposal of fashion goods and accessories.
In addition to the theoretical insights is a comprehensive research study of female fahion consumers between 13-50 years, which concludes that eventhough consumers plays a pivotal role in the fashion industry’s ethical journey, the respondents general ethical thoughts, for example in terms of buying ecological food, does not transfer to their fashion consumption routines: They have very little or no knowledge of the fashion industry’s ethical initiatives, and the differentiation paradox within fast fashion prevents them from making ethical decisions in purchase situations. This paper suggest ways to create a stronger and more transparent dialogue between the industry and the consumer, and through that, raise awareness about clothing as a means to, not only attach us to the present, but also to the future.
Keywords: fashion, sustainability, ethical, consumer, eco-clothing, eco-fashion, needs, attitude-behaviour gap, sefish giving, the differentiation paradox, fast fashion, the nice consumer, Copenhagen Fahsion Summit 2012.

A fashion epiphany. Day 24.

I have a confession: I’ve always thought that fashion is superficial and shallow, which is why I am more annoyed than embarrassed by the fact that I, instead of living out my own taste, feed on what the fashion system dictates me to wear.

The past days I am seriously beginning to doubt my beliefs though.

I have read fashion blogs for about two years, and I have always been a bit embarrassed about it. Blogs like Trines Wardrobe where a girl is photographing her self every single day, I mean come on! Of course I know that the only reason I am repelled by the whole self-absorbed thing is because I do the exact same: I am on Myspace, Twitter, Facebook, Pinterest, Blogspot AND a I have a website (two if we include Danish Models). And I’ve googled my own name several times. Self-absorbed = me!

Anyhow, the reason for my epiphany today is a combination of a book and two american teenagers. The book I am reading right now is this one by Daniel Miller:

And what he is saying is that in the modern western society we experience truth and being as something on the surface, because people are always defined by their current abilities and achievements. Whereas other more institutionalized societies (for example like back in the day) see truth and being as something deep within the self and relatively constant.
The fact that we everyday experience this ‘being’ as something on the outside obviously affects our relationship with our clothes, since clothes automatically will represent a way to discover who we actually are. Of course we spend more time being concerned with how we look, because how we look equals, not only a reflection of, but who we actually are. We build up our identity through what we wear.
But at the same time we have this notion that ‘being’ is supposed to be something deep, and this has some funny consequences for example in terms of our perception of being natural: 
“We have this very peculiar ideal about looking natural, which tends to imply that putting on make-up and clothes is false and superficial. But why should we assume this? […] Why on earth should the natural look of a person be a guide to who that one person is? By contrast, a person who spends time, money, taste and attention in creating a look, where the final look is the direct result of all that activity and effort, can properly be discovered in their appearance. Because now one is judging what we have done, not what they happen to look like originally.” 
I think that is pretty exiting, but also kind of one sided. Therefore I was happy when I found a blogpost from an american teenager talking to other teens about having the guts to create your (true and profound) identity on the outside, which of course is scary, because it’s new and you don’t know if it’s you or not yet, because you are body storming to find out, instead of rationalizing or copying.
(I wish I read this 15 years ago)
“I think most people are afraid of dressing a little stranger or cuter because they’re afraid people will think they think they’re so great. Like people will be like, “OH, SO YOU’RE ALL ARTSY NOW?” Nobody will say this if you act like it’s no big deal, as opposed to constantly checking yourself in trophy-case reflections or whatever. If anyone does say it, you look at them, give one of the more subtle “you are an idiot” bitchfaces, and say, “…No?” And they will feel like a dumbass.[…] What such people don’t get is that most people who like more obscure music or wear vintage clothes don’t think of themselves as artsy, they’re just exploring and trying to define their taste instead of being someone who likes whatever is handed to them for fear of being mistaken for pretentious. I don’t like the term hipster—I think it’s become so broad as to apply to basically everyone—but the defining quality is that a hipster thinks and cares about what their tastes say about them, instead of just liking what they like. And so there is nothing more hipster than a person who decides that the only reason another person is wearing a colorful dress is that they’re concerned with what that dress means for their image. It’s hipster to give a shit if other people are hipsters or not; this is why people who claim they’re not hipsters are the most hipster of all, because they’rethinking that hard about it, and caring that much about what other people think.
People are afraid of trying to be creative because they’re afraid that they won’t succeed, but who said your “success” in getting dressed has to be evaluated by other people? As long as you’re into what you’re wearing and it makes you more comfortable with yourself, it doesn’t matter if someone else thinks you’ve put together a perfectly composed outfit. Actually, the effect of your confidence will only add to how stylish your outfit seems. It’s like the best catch-22 ever.
On top of that I then discovered that this little brat whom I always liked to hate actually had some really interesting ideas about fashion, feminism and society at TedxTeen. 

So today I am wearing my dad’s old pants, my reverse jacket and two old plastic horses with pride (and a slight hope that I am now a tiny step closer toward creating a sustainable fashion consumption project that will actually appeal to people).
– Ida

Day 23.

I am sorry, but I am pulling the handicap card on the heels today. Of course I will wear all of them, but I just can´t walk in them all day (seriously. Do people do that?!) 
I blame it on my arthritic hip that has been hurting a lot the past month.

Day 22.

During my exciting routine at the supermarket today, I overheard a little girl and her dad whispering about me. My heels make me 1.82 m tall and apparently very sensitive to mumbling people, so I was anxious when the dad told her to ‘say it’. After a little while she looked up at me and whispered: “You’re shoes are very beautiful”.

Day 21.

I actually feel really hot in my clothes today (Acne from the belly down and H&M from the belly up) and I strutted all the way to the supermarket and back – without falling.